Saturday 15 November 2014

My Spiritual Travelogue - Visit to Sri Vadakkunnathan Temple, Thrissur, Kerala


Sri Vadakkunnathan temple is located in Thrissur of Kerala District.  This is an ancient Shiva temple. In Malayalam Vadakkunnathan means The Lord of the North, who resides in Kailasam (The Himalayas) which is in the northern side of India.  Lord Shiva of this temple is considered to be  the Lord of the South and so was this temple called Southern Kailasam.


Western entrance of the Temple
A rare picture of main entrance of Vadakkunnathan Temple taken in 1913 seen from Swaraj Round from Illustrated Guide to the South Indian Railway, printed by Hoe and Coat the 'Premier Press'

As per legends there are different versions of story of the origin of the Vadkkunnathan Temple.   Inspite of some differences between these versions in the origin of the temple, there is a consensus in them on one fact that the temple was founded by Parasurama.   Legends also narrates that initially the Shiva linga was at the foot of the huge Banyan tree.  This Mula Sthana banyan tree is well preserved now which is in front of the western temple entrance.  The vast greenary maidhan (ground) surrounded by the Mula Sthana Banyan tree serves as a beautiful sight for the tired eyes.

The famous 'Sri Mula Sthana' Banyan Tree

The temple architecture is a classic example of the Kerala architectural style.  I have seen in the temples here in Kerala they have mostly a common architectural design in and around the shrine, intricate  wooden carvings dedicated to the puranic legends and maestros, beautiful rare mural paintings of ancient times etc.   

Here, this temple was built during the seventh century, built according to the Hindu Sastras, and a pre-Dravidian temple.  The temple theatre, konwn as Koothambalam has four magnificient Gopurams and the lofty masonry walls are of great craftsmanship and skill.  This famous Koothambalam is the place for performing arts viz. Nangyar Koothu, Koodiyattam and stage plays, which are Central Kerala's ritualistic art forms.  

Koothamalam is on the right side

This temple has also got a legendry historical detail that the Religious Guru Adi Shankara's parents Shivaguru and Aryamba  prayed Lord Shiva in this temple that they be blessed with a child.  The couple observed vigorously pooja and bhajans for a mandalam period (41 days)  in this temple.  Shiva appeared before them and blessed for a child with two options - 1. a mediocre son with a long life  or 2. an extraordinary son  with shorter life.  The couple opted the second option.  Thus, the child was born to the couple and they named him as Shankara in honour of Lord Shiva.  Adi Shankara attained videha mukti  in this temple.  
The world famous colourful Thrissur Pooram festival being conducted in the temple premises here even now, though the temple is not participating in the festival.  The main attraction of the Pooram is the Elanjitharamelam, a two hour Chendavadyam (with five instruments) is held near Koothambalam in the temple, by the top most artists from the state.  This festival was introduced by Sakthan Thampuran (1751-1805)  who was very fond of  Lord Vadakkunnathan.  His personal interest towards the Lord changed the fortune of the Thrissur City too.    

The main deity Lord Shiva is in the form of a huge lingam, but not visible, is fully covered under a screen of ghee formed by the daily abhishekam with ghee over hundred and hundred of years.  A thick ghee layer has been formed around the lingam which is now about 5.0m high with cascading crescents of gold and three serpent hoods on top.  This is the only Shiva temple where lingam is not visible.  It is also said that the ghee covered the lingam is not emanating any kind of foul odor and does not melt even in summer.  

There are shrines for Krishna (in the form of Krishna as cowherd), Nandikeswara, Parasurama, Simhodara, Ayyappan, Vettekkaran (Lord Shiva as hunter) and Adi Shankara in the outside of the main deity shrine. There are shrines for Ganapati, Sankaranarayana, Rama, Arthanarishvara.  Main festivals of this temple are Maha Shivaratri, Aanayoottu (feeding elephants).

Temple timings :  Morning - From 03:00 AM to 10:30 AM, 
                            Evening -  From 05:00 PM to   8.30 PM 





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