My Spiritual Travelogue - Visit to Temples in and around Kumbakonam-Part-2

Visit to Sri Airawateswara Temple at Darasuram

Darasuram (a Panchayat Town) is situated about 3 KM from Kumbakonam. During the Chola Dynasty (11th Century period) King Raja Kambeera Mamannan and Raja Raja Chola II changed their capital town from Gangaikonda Cholapuram to Palaiyarai, an ancient temple city which was named as Raja Raja Puram. King Raja Raja II was very much interested in developing fine arts, music and dance during temple festival occasions. He was also very fond of developing temple architecture and constructed a beautiful temple for Lord Shiva Airavateswara 1160 to 1162 A.D. The temple was named as Raja Rajechuram and in passage of time, now being called as Darasuram.  The main deity's consort is Periya Nayaki Amman.

Sri Airavateswara Temple front view 

This temple, one of the three architectural marvels (other two being the Big Temple in Thanjavur and Gangaikonda Cholapuram in Perambalur districts built by the Chola Kings) has its uniqueness as that of the other two temples similarity in architecture, style, for its intricate, beautiful sculptures and epigraphs. The temple is in the form of a chairot being pulled by  elephant and horse with a fleet of steps.

The stone chariot

An epigraphist and temple expert Kudavayil Balasubramanian details that there are many unique sculptures in this temple which include 73 panel of sculptures depicting the life history of 63 Nayanmars which are very rare to see anywhere. The temple is full of rare sculptures, chola period paintings, epigraphs that give details about the history of Raja Raja Cholan. The temple main entrance, palipeeda and the Nandi were reassembled by the Archaeological Survey of India . The fleet of steps near the palipeeda were made of stone and are said to create musical notes when tapped by finger or by metal.  There are sculptures of 108 Devara Othuvars who sung in the temple during the period of King Raja Raja II. 

A mythology connected with the temple : Airavatham is an elephant, white in color and is a vahana of Devendran.  It was cursed by Rishi Durvasa to lose its shining white.  Airavatha came to this temple and worshipped the Lord for regaining its white color and got back its original color.  Hence, the deity came to be known as Sri Airawateswara (protector of elephant).

Another legend is that the presiding deity Airavateswarar cured Lord Yama who was suffering under a Rishi's curse from a burning sensation all over the body. Yama took bath in the sacred tank and got cured from his illness. Since then the tank is said to be known as Yamateertham.

Main Gopura 85 ft height

                                                        

                   Intricate stone carvings

                                          

                            

     The four praharas

                            

Intricate carvings and sculptures on inside temple walls

UNESCO has declared the temple (2004) as a world heritage monument and the Archaeological Survey of India is maintaining the temple well. With lush green lawns in front and illumination, the temple has become a tourist spot.

Visit to Sri  Srinivasa Perumal Thirukoil at  Nachiarkoil 

Nachiarkoil or Thirunarayur  is a small town on Kumbakonam-Tiruvarur road, about 10 KM from Kumbakonam.  This temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu, the main deity is Lord Srinivasa Perumal and his consort is Sri Vanjulavalli Nachiayar.  This is one of the 108 Divya Desams dedicated for Lord Vishnu.  In this temple, it is believed, Lord Vishnu taught Pancha Samskara (a religious initiation) to Thirumangai Alwar.    

Main Gopura

This temple is believed to have been built by Kochengat Cholan of late 3rd cenurty AD.  He is said to have built about 70 temples for Lord Shiva and this is only temple which he built for Lord Vishnu.   

                                                                 

                                                                          Inside temple

Legend has it that  Lakshmi was born as Vanchulavalli at the foot of a Vanchula tree to Medhavi Munivar.  Vishnu is believed to have manifested himself in the Pancha Vyuha  forms and married Vanchulavalli.  In the sanctum are the sculptures of the deities - Sankarshana in the east, Pradyumna in the south, Anirudha in the west, Purushothaman in the north and Vasudeva in the center.  There is no separate shrine for Thayar.  There are shrines for Yoga Narasimhar, Ramar, Hanuman and Chakrapani.

                                                      

                                              Sri Srinivasan Perumal and Vanchulavalli Nachiyar

   

 

Temple details in Tamil Notice Board

Kal Garuda (Lord's Vahana or vehicle)

There is a special significant importance in this temple to Lord's Vahana - Kal Garuda which is made of stone.  A legend has it that while sculpting the stone for making the Garuda Vahana for The Lord, after making the wings, sculptor found the Garuda started flying and shocked by this incident he threw a stone which struck the idol nose and brought it down.  Then the idol decided to stay there to bless the devotees.

There is a special sannadhi  to Kal Garudun. Garudun is seen with nine serpents and is believed to have the powers to remove the Navagraha Dosham. The speciality of the Kal Garuda is that during Garuda Seva festival (during December), the mount is said to increase exponentially in size as it is carried out of the sanctum with the Utsava moorthi seated on, and decrease the same way while being brought back inside the temple. It is found only 4 people are needed to carry it initially and as it is carried out of the temple, 64 people are required to carry it thereon.  At the end of the Garuda Seva event one can even now find  sweat drops on the Kal Garuda symbolising of having completed the greatest job of carrying The Lord for the seva.

                                                                        

Kal Garudun

 நாலாயிர திவ்யப் ப்ரபந்தத்தில்  திருமங்கை ஆழ்வார் அருளிச் செய்த பெரிய திருமொழி  7-1 - கறவா மடநாகு (திருநறையூர் 8) 1548 பாசுரத்தில்  இத்தலத்தைப் பற்றி  சிறப்பாக பாடப்பெற்றுள்ளது :   

                       "கறவா  மடநாகு தன்  கன்று உள்ளினாற் போல் 

                              மறவாது அடியேன் உன்னையே அழைக்கின்றேன் 

                              நறவார் பொழில் சூழ் நறையூர் நின்ற நம்பி 

                              பிறவாமை எனைப்பணி எந்தை பிரானே!"

மேலும், நாலாயிர திவ்யப் ப்ரபந்தத்தில்  திருமங்கை ஆழ்வார் அருளிச் செய்த பெரிய திருமொழி  7-2 புள்ளாய்  (திருநறையூர் - 9) 1558 முதல் 1567 முடிய  பாசுரங்களிலும்  " நறையூர் நின்ற நம்பியை"  போற்றிப் பாடியுள்ளார் .

                     "பொன்னுலகில் வானவரும் பூமகளும் போற்றி செய்யும் 

                      நல்  நூதலீர் !  நம்பி திருநரையூரர்  - மன்னுலகில்  
                      என் நிலைமை கண்டும் இறங்காரேயாமாகில் 

                      மன்னு மடல்  ஊர்வன் வந்து " - 

                             
                                - பெரிய திருமடல் தனியன் பிள்ளை  திருநறையூர்  அரையர்  அருளிச் செய்தது .




Visit to Sri  Venkatachalapathi swami Koil at Oppiliappankoil

The temple is situated about 7 kms south of Kumbakonam and about 1/2km from Thirunageswaram.

This is one amoang the 108 Divysa Desams.  This place is also known as Thiruvinnagaram.

Sri Oppiliappan Temple main gopura

The sthala purana is discussed in Brahmmananda Puranam wherein details are offered by Lord Brahmma himself. Once Tulasidevi who was born along with nectar (amrita), while churning the milky-ocean, begged Lord Narayana that she also be adorned by Him on His chest like Mahalakshmi.  Thereupon, the Lord said that Lakshmi did very severe penance to gain a place on His chest. The Lord further said that Lakshmi would appear as Bhoomidevi at a holy place near Kumbakonam, to the south of Kaveri and would be brought up by sage Markandeya as his daughter. Tulasi should go there earlier and be in the form of lovely Tulasi plant at the sage's hermitage. Then Lakshmi would appear under the Tulasi plant as Bhoomidevi. Later on Lord Narayana would come and marry Bhoomidevi and live there forever. Then the glory of Tulasi will become known to all.

The Lord further said that those who worship Him with petals of tulasi, shall attain all prosperity in the world and also the benefit of performing 'Asvamedha yaga'. All those who reside in this holy place will attain Sri Vaikunta at the end of their lives. From then onwards, Tulasi lived in this holy place, which therefore came to be known as Tulasi Vana (Tulasi forest).  

 Sri Oppiliappan, Sri Bhoomidevi, Sri Markendeya sage

ஒப்பிலியப்பன்  அல்லது உப்பிலியப்பன்  எதற்கும் ஒப்பில்லாத அப்பன் என்றும்,  உப்பு இல்லமல் பகவானுக்கு ஸ்கல நைவேத்தியங்களும் செய்யப்படுகின்றமையால் உப்பிலியப்பன் என்றும்,  போற்றி வணங்கபடுகிறார்.   இவ்வெம்பெருமானுக்கு லவணவர்ஜித் (உப்பை விலக்கிய) ஸ்ரீனிவாஸன் என்ற சிறப்பு பெயரும் உண்டு. நம்மாழ்வார்  எம்பெருமானை பொன்னப்பன், மணியப்பன், முத்தப்பன், என்னப்பன், திருவிண்ணகரப்பன்  என்று போற்றி வணங்குகிறார். 

இங்கு எழுந்தருளியிருக்கும் மூலவர் நின்ற கோலத்தில் காட்சியளிக்கிறார் .  இக்காட்சி, திருப்பதி  ஸ்ரீ வெங்கடா சலபதி  நின்ற கோலத்தினை  ஒத்திருக்கின்றது.   தாயார் ஸ்ரீ பூமி தேவியும் , மார்கேண்டேய  முனிவரும்  கிழே அமர்ந்து  காட்சியளிக்கின்றனர்.

இத்தலம் ஆழ்வார்களால் மங்களா சாசனம் செய்யபெற்றுள்ளது. 

இத்தலத்தையும்  இத்தல எம்பெருமானையும் நம்மாழ்வார் 11 (3249 - 59) பாசுரங்களிலும், திருமங்கை அழ்வார் 34 பாசுரங்களிலும் (1448 -1477, 1855, 2080 (72), 2674 (113)  பொய்கையாழ்வார் 1 பாசுரம் , பேயாழ்வார்  2 பாசுரங்களிலும்  (2342, 2343) மங்களாசாசனம் செய்தருளியுள்ளனர் .

திருமங்கை யாழ்வார் அருளிச் செய்த பெரிய திருமொழி 6-1 - வண்டுனு  (திருவிண்ணகர்  1)

1448 - 1477, 1855, 2080 (72), 2674(113)

 1448  "வண்டுனு  நறுமலர் இண்டை கொண்டு பண்டை நம் வினை கெட  என்று அடி மேல் 

             தொண்டரும் அமரரும் பணிய நின்று அங்கு அண்டமொடு அகலிடம் அளந்தவனே !

             ஆண்டா ய் ! உனைக் காண்பதோர் அருள் எனக்கு அருளுதியேல் 

             வேண்டேன் மனை வாழக்கையை  விண்ணகர்  மேயவனே!"

Visit to Goddess Durgambigai temple at, Patteeswaram

Patteeswaram is a village near Kumbakonam,  which is about 8 Kms away. This village is famous for its Sri Durga Temple.  The village is named after Patti, the calf of Kamadhenu, a divine cow in Hindu mythology.  Hence, the main deity in this temple is named as Patteswarar and Lord's consort is Sri Durgambigai.  This Sri Durgambigai temple is a big temple and maintained well.  Though the temple is a Shiva Temple - Sri Patteswarar, the temple is known famous for Lord Shiva's consort Sri Durgambigai.  This temple has five gopurams which show the temple architecture of Pallavas, Cholas and Nayaks period. Patteswaram is  one of the parihara sthalams which means that those afflicted by doshams due to their karma deeds (sins)  can get absolution of their sins by performing parihara poojas (remedial poojas) in this temple to attain papa vimochanam.

Temple entrance

Patti, calf of Kamadhenu worshipping Eshwar

The legend goes like this - Lord Rama was afflicted with  three doshams (great sins) for killing King Ravana - brahmmahathi (killed a brahmin) dosham, verahatthi (killing a warrior) dosham and chayahatthi (killing a ardent Shiva devotee) dosham.  He could get rid of these doshams and get absolution of his sins  by installing Shiva lingams and  do penance and perform parihara poojas.   He installed one Shiva Lingam in Rameshwaram to ward off brahmmahatti dosham, installed another Shiva Lingam in Vedaranyam to get rid of verahatti dosham and the third shiva lingam at Patteeswaram to cleanse his chayahatti dosham and obtained papa vimochanam.  

Here, in this temple,  the Nandi ( Lord Shiva vahana) is slightly shifted to a side from its position as can be seen in other temples, with a view to give a clear view to the child poet Thirugnanasambandar who came to Patteeswaram in a hot summer, totally tired and exhausted because of the intense heat, to worship Lord Shiva.  To make it cool for the young devotee, Lord erected a முத்துப்பந்தல் (canopy of pearls) all along his way and also asked Nandi to move aside so that He could straightaway see his devotee Sambandar when he enered the temple.  To commemorate this incident, even now this temple celeberates a special festival 'Muthupandal festival' in the tamil month of Ani (ஆனி ).     

          

                   Lord Patteeswarar

Temple tank is there in the front side.  A shrine for Pillayar is also there near the tank.  

Lord;s consort Sri Durga protects mankind from evil forces, removes negative qualities of mankind viz. ego, envy, anger, hatred etc.  Goddess Sri Durga can be seen here in Shanta Swarupam, seated on lion (Her vahana) and her foot on demon Mahishasura, with ashtabhuja (eight hands) holding conch, discuss, bow, arrow, sword, shied and a parrot in them.  Devotees throng this temple to have Her devine darshan and worship the Goddess Durga during Rahu Kalam period, tuesdays, fridays, sundays, full moon and new moon days.  The Goddess Durga here is considered to be a very powerful deity, showers Her Blessings on Her devotees.  Devotees will also pray the Goddess to seek Her Blessings for marriage of their daughters.    Lemon garlands, cloths are offered to the deity by the devotees.  Tamil month Aadi ( ஆடி மாதம்) is very important for Goddess Durga and special poojas are performed throughout this month.  Accordingly, temple timings are a little different from other days.

Goddess Durgambigai

Temple timings:  Monday-Sunday (Except   Friday): 6 AM to 1 PM, 4PM to 9 PM, Friday: 6 AM to 1 PM, 4AM to 10 AM

Contact details: Arulmigu Dhenupureeshwar Thirukkovil, Sri Durga Sthalam, Patteswaram, Kumbakonam, Thanjavur Dist, Phone: 0435 2416976 emple Website: http://www.patteeswaramdurga.org